Motorcycle Oil

Motorcycle Oil

Make sure you get the right oil for your motorcycle. Motor oils come in grades / weights. Each grade is rated for ignition compression (for diesel engines), spark ignition (for gasoline engines) or for both types of engines. Additionally oils can be synthetic or natural, include detergents, be a multigrade (20W-50) or single grade (50), and made for motorcycles or cars.

Understanding biker oils is essential to getting the best mc oil. The thickness of the fluid is measure in SAE rating. The lower the number the lighter it is (the easier it flows). When oil gets hot it also flows easier so to compensate for a too light hot oil viscosity mix are available called 20W-50. Which means a cold oil flows like a 20 grade but at high temperature it flows like a thicker 50 grade.

What oil do you need to get? I would suggest a synthetic oil (for modern bikes not for older models) since synthetic holds its properties much better than a natural oil. A specific oil isn't always the best motorcycle oil and may not be worth the extra investment (only if you hardly ever renew the oil or ride under extreme situations). A wide multi grade range is smarter for the engine.

Four stroke engines store the oil in a reservoir but two stroke engines work in a different way. The oil gets pumped around the moving parts and gets burnt during the combustion process. That's why you don't need to drain two stroke engines for maintenance. Just keep them topped up with quality two stroke (!) oil.

Maintenance on four strokes is simple. Drain the oil while it is still hot (watch out), remove the filter and replace with a new one (use a recommended filter). Watch very carefully that filter is sealed well. Check your owner manual for more tips.

Try to keep to a routine, so your oil changes are as regular as possible. Sticking to your changing routine is simple and is one of the easiest ways to ensure your bike keeps running smoothly.

Keep your radiator as clean as possible. Make sure grit and flies are out of the fins... smooth airflow ensures the best cooling of the engine.

Today you need to use detergent motorcycle oil - the detergent added to the oil helps gather dirt particles in the oil until it gets to the filter. Without it your engine starts to run less smoothly over a longer period of time.

Part of the oil function is to help with heat reduction from the internal friction and combustion process - the hot oil ends in the oil sump (which for that reason also has cooling fins)

Dry sump systems have the oil stored outside the engine (Harley Davidson) whereas a wet sump system has the oil in the bottom of the engine (most motorcycle).

Drain oil when it's hot (normal operation temperature) - it flows better and holds the dirt particles better.

Use synthetic oil when you are using the bike under a lot of stress, are not good at following a maintenance schedule, or ride short distances. (always check your owner manual)

Don't use synthetic oil in an older engine.

Under most circumstances it is wise to run a multi grade oil in your motorcycle engine.

Oil gets used in combustion process with two stroke engines - this is normal- so check the oil very often.

When checking oil your bike should stand upright (unless manual says differently) and just dip the stick onto the thread, no need to screw it back in (unless the manual says differently)

There is no need to change the oil filter with every oil change - the ratio is 2 changes to one filter. If in doubt always change both.

Don't use car oil filter on motorcycles - the bypass filter is set to much higher pressure.

Over filling the oil can cause just as much damage as running with too little oil in your engine.

When dealing with oil filters realize they come as two different types - canister filters (when replacing watch the loose springs and bolts) and spinon filters.

Drain Plugs are often a little magnetic (so they catch little metal parts in the oil) remember to wipe it clean when servicing.